Top Perfume Reviews 2025: Womanity, Reveal, Vanilla Vibes, Le Sel D’Issey, Olympéa, Bleu Turquoise & Fragrance Trends
Key Points
- Research suggests the fragrance industry overused salt notes in the 2010s, leading to unbalanced scents.
- It seems likely that fragrances like Womanity, Reveal Woman, and Olympéa were criticized for their prominent, often overpowering salt notes.
- The evidence leans toward the trend waning by 2025, with current trends focusing on gourmand and wellness scents.
- There is controversy around the use of salt, with some appreciating its uniqueness and others finding it unpleasant.
Overview
The fragrance industry faced criticism for its handling of salt notes, particularly in non-oceanic fragrances, during the 2010s. This trend, which started with Womanity in 2010, led to many scents being perceived as unbalanced due to excessive saltiness. By 2025, the industry has shifted, with salt notes less prominent and new trends like gourmand and wellness fragrances taking center stage.
Specific Fragrances
Fragrances like Womanity by Thierry Mugler, Reveal Woman by Calvin Klein, Vanilla Vibes by Juliette Has A Gun, Le Sel D’Issey by Issey Miyake, Olympéa by Paco Rabanne, and Bleu Turquoise by Giorgio Armani were highlighted for their salt notes. Reviews often note the salt as a key feature, sometimes positively for its uniqueness, but frequently negatively for being overpowering.
Current Trends
As of June 2025, research suggests the salt trend has waned, with the industry focusing on more balanced and innovative scents. Gourmand fragrances with edible notes like vanilla and caramel, as well as wellness scents with calming ingredients like lavender, are now popular, reflecting a move away from the heavy salt use of the past.
Survey Note: Detailed Analysis of the Fragrance Industry's Use of Salt Notes
This section provides an in-depth exploration of the fragrance industry's handling of salt notes, as critiqued in Eddie Bulliqi's article "What The Fragrance Industry Got Wrong About Salt," published in 2022, and supplemented by online research as of June 28, 2025. The analysis covers the historical trend, specific fragrances, user reception, and current market shifts, aiming to offer a comprehensive overview for perfume enthusiasts.
Background and Critique
Eddie Bulliqi's article criticizes the fragrance industry for overusing salt notes in non-oceanic fragrances, arguing that this led to unbalanced and often unpleasant scents. The author compares the industry's approach to over-salting food, suggesting that salt was used as a dominant note rather than a subtle enhancer, resulting in a "quick-lived trend" that is now on its last legs. The trend is said to have started with Womanity by Thierry Mugler in 2010, followed by other fragrances like Reveal Woman, Vanilla Vibes, Le Sel D’Issey, Olympéa, and Bleu Turquoise. Neom Organics is highlighted as an exception that used salt effectively, suggesting that when used with restraint, salt can still be valuable.
Historical Trend and Specific Fragrances
The article claims that the trend began with Womanity, launched in 2010, which introduced a salty caviar note paired with figs and vanilla. This was followed by a wave of fragrances in the 2010s that incorporated salt, often in floral-amber or gourmand compositions. Below is a table summarizing the key fragrances mentioned, their launch years, and notes, based on Fragrantica and other reviews:
Fragrance | Brand | Launch Year | Key Notes Including Salt | Description from Reviews |
---|---|---|---|---|
Womanity | Thierry Mugler | 2010 | Fig, Caviar, Vanilla, Salt (via caviar accord) | Polarizing, often described as fishy or too salty, unique but unbalanced. |
Reveal Woman | Calvin Klein | 2014 | Salt, Pepper, Ambergris, Sandalwood | Noted for raw salt signature, sometimes overpowering, mixed reception. |
Vanilla Vibes | Juliette Has A Gun | 2019 | Salt, Vanilla Absolute, Orchid, Tonka Bean | Described as salted vanilla, unique but can feel heavy. |
Le Sel D’Issey | Issey Miyake | 2024 | Salt, Seaweed, Incense, Cedarwood, Amber | Fresh and marine, salt noted as sparkling, some find it soapy. |
Olympéa | Paco Rabanne | 2015 | Salt, Vanilla, Jasmine, Cashmere Wood | Salted vanilla accord, praised for uniqueness, some find it cloying. |
Bleu Turquoise | Giorgio Armani | 2018 | Salt, Incense, Black Pepper, Vanilla, Sandalwood | Unique blend, salt prominent, sometimes described as mineral and cool. |
Reviews from platforms like Fragrantica and Basenotes support the article's critique. For instance, Womanity is described as "toxic" and "unnerving" by some, with a metallic, salty edge that feels alien, while others appreciate its uniqueness. Reveal Woman is noted for its salt note blooming on some skins, making it feel like "bilge on a sailboat," indicating an overpowering effect. Vanilla Vibes is praised for its salted vanilla twist but criticized for being heavy and suffocating by some. Le Sel D’Issey is seen as a fresh marine scent, but some reviews mention the salt accord is hard to detect, suggesting a lack of balance. Olympéa is often lauded for its salted vanilla, but longevity and sillage concerns are noted. Bleu Turquoise is described as having a salty, smoky feel, with some finding it headache-inducing in the drydown.
User Reception and Controversy
The use of salt in fragrances is controversial, with a divide between those who appreciate its uniqueness and those who find it unpleasant. For example, a Reddit post from January 2023 on r/FemFragLab mentions Olympéa as a "heavy salted vanilla" that some love for its prominent salt, while others find it suffocating, similar to Idole Aura. An X post from June 26, 2025, by @Alex_Major1 praising Bleu Turquoise as "gorgeous" contrasts with reviews noting its intensity, highlighting the subjective nature of scent perception.
Current Market Trends (2025)
As of June 28, 2025, research suggests the salt trend has waned, with the fragrance industry focusing on more balanced and innovative scents. Current trends include:
- Gourmand Fragrances: Notes like vanilla, caramel, and chocolate are popular, often paired with nostalgic or whimsical elements like cereal milk or cotton candy, as noted by The Fragrance Shop
. These scents are becoming more sophisticated, with botanical twists like basil or fig.
- Wellness Fragrances: Scents designed to boost mental clarity or mood, using ingredients like lavender, frankincense, and chamomile, are gaining traction, as seen in articles like Wicked Good Perfume.
- Innovative Blends: Experimental combinations, such as matcha-infused fragrances, are on the rise, with a 127.4% increase in Google searches for "matcha perfume" from 2023 to 2024, according to Refinery29.
- Genderless Fragrances: Unisex scents blending masculine and feminine notes are becoming the norm, reflecting broader cultural shifts toward inclusivity, as noted by Who What Wear.
Salt is now used more sparingly, often as a supporting note rather than a central feature, indicating the industry's response to past criticisms. This shift is evident in the lack of new major releases focusing on salt in 2025, with trends leaning toward more balanced and emotionally evocative compositions.
Neom Organics and Effective Use of Salt
The article highlights Neom Organics as an exception, noting their oils possess a "sparkling verve" of salted naturals. While specific reviews of Neom's fragrances are less detailed in the search results, their reputation for natural, balanced scents supports the claim that they use salt effectively, likely in a subtle, complementary way, contrasting with the heavy-handed approach of the 2010s fragrances.
Conclusion
The fragrance industry's overuse of salt notes in the 2010s, as critiqued by Eddie Bulliqi, led to a trend of unbalanced and polarizing scents, exemplified by Womanity, Reveal Woman, Vanilla Vibes, Le Sel D’Issey, Olympéa, and Bleu Turquoise. By 2025, the industry has shifted, embracing gourmand, wellness, and innovative blends, with salt used more sparingly. This evolution reflects a learning curve, with Neom Organics standing out as an example of effective salt use, suggesting that when balanced, salt can still enhance fragrance compositions.
Key Citations
- Womanity Mugler perfume review
- Reveal Calvin Klein perfume review
- Vanilla Vibes Juliette Has A Gun perfume review
- Le Sel D’Issey Issey Miyake cologne review
- Olympéa Rabanne perfume review
- Armani Privé Bleu Turquoise Giorgio Armani perfume review
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